How to Test an Electric Golf Cart Solenoid – Repair Guide

Many people search for information on how to test an electric golf cart solenoid, and while that term is commonly used, the component is technically a contactor. This guide will use the term “solenoid” as that is what most users are familiar with. Older model golf carts typically use a solenoid as the main high-current switch, directly connecting and disconnecting the battery from the motor to control starting and stopping. Newer model golf carts, however, often use a controller for this power control function. In these newer models, if a solenoid or relay is still present, it’s more likely used to control low-power accessories like lights, horns, or other auxiliary devices.

Locating the Solenoid on Your Golf Cart: The solenoid is usually located near the golf cart’s battery compartment or the motor controller. It’s typically a relatively large, cylindrical or square component with wires of varying thicknesses connected to it. If you’re unsure of its exact location, consult your golf cart’s owner’s manual or a repair manual.

1. Solenoid Coil Integrity Test (Continuity/Resistance Test)

This is the most basic test, checking the continuity of the solenoid coil. A broken (open) coil will prevent the solenoid from functioning.

  • Set your multimeter to the Ohms setting (Ω).
  • Connect the multimeter probes to the two small control terminals of the solenoid coil.
  • A healthy solenoid coil should show a resistance reading (typically a few Ohms to a few tens of Ohms – the exact value varies by model). A reading of zero (short circuit) or infinite resistance (open circuit) indicates a faulty coil.

2. Solenoid Engagement Test (“Click” Test)

This test checks if the solenoid’s internal mechanism is working. When the correct control voltage is applied, you should hear a distinct “click”.

  • Using a safe, low-voltage power source (not the main golf cart battery), connect to the solenoid’s small control terminals, ensuring correct polarity. Important: The solenoid’s control voltage is significantly lower than the main battery voltage. Refer to your vehicle’s manual to confirm the correct control voltage; using the wrong voltage can damage the solenoid! Jumper wires can be used from a separate power source to connect to these terminals.
  • Listen carefully for a clear “click.” A click indicates the solenoid is likely engaging. No click suggests a faulty coil, a stuck internal mechanism, or a problem with the control circuit wiring (if you’re sure you’re applying the correct voltage).

3. Solenoid Conduction Test (Voltage Test)

This crucial test verifies that the solenoid can properly connect the main high-current circuit, supplying power to the motor.

  • Set your multimeter to the DC voltage setting (VDC), with a range higher than the golf cart’s battery voltage.
  • Connect the multimeter probes to the two large terminals of the solenoid (these are the terminals connected to the battery and the motor).
  • With the accelerator pedal not pressed, the voltage should read close to zero (or a very low voltage).
  • Press the accelerator pedal to activate the solenoid. The multimeter should now read close to the full battery voltage. No significant change in voltage, or a very low voltage reading, indicates the solenoid is not conducting properly.
multimeter testing of electric golf cart solenoid

4. Solenoid Voltage Drop Test

This test checks for excessive resistance across the solenoid’s main contacts, even when it appears to be conducting.

  • Set your multimeter to the DC voltage setting (VDC).
  • With the solenoid activated (accelerator pedal pressed), connect the multimeter probes to each of the large terminals – one probe on one large terminal, and the other probe on the other large terminal.
  • Ideally, the voltage drop should be minimal (a few millivolts). A voltage drop exceeding 0.3V (this is a general guideline; always consult your vehicle’s service manual for the specific value) indicates excessive resistance within the solenoid, possibly due to pitted or corroded contacts. This usually requires solenoid replacement.

Summary of Tests

  • Coil Continuity/Resistance Test: Checks for an open or shorted solenoid coil.
  • Engagement Test (“Click” Test): Verifies that the solenoid’s internal mechanism is moving.
  • Conduction Voltage Test: Confirms that the solenoid is supplying power to the motor circuit.
  • Voltage Drop Test: Identifies excessive resistance across the solenoid’s main contacts.

Important Safety Precautions

  • Disconnect Main Battery: Always disconnect the golf cart’s main battery before performing any electrical tests. This prevents electric shock and potential damage to components.
  • Use Correct Control Voltage: Never apply the main battery voltage directly to the solenoid’s control terminals. Use a separate, low-voltage power source that matches the solenoid’s control voltage specification.
  • Consult a Professional: If you’re uncomfortable working with electrical systems, or if you’re unsure about any of these steps, seek assistance from a qualified golf cart technician. Electrical work can be dangerous if performed incorrectly.

FAQ

Do modern electric golf carts still use solenoids?

Yes. Most electric golf carts—especially those using traditional DC motor systems—still rely on solenoids to control motor activation. However, in some advanced carts with AC motors and integrated motor controllers, the solenoid function may be embedded within the controller system.